This dress along with its counterpart is pretty famous for a lot of reasons I’ll get into in another post. The only thing really left of this dress when it was found was the neckline:

But, based on other garments found in the surrounding areas we have a pretty good idea of the construction. Though it should be noted I have found at least two different accepted constructions of this garment and there are probably more. I was going to try my hand at this dress but had to leave before I could get started.  Since I have not made it yet, I don’t have any tricks for it but I can give you the pattern and how to measure for it.

This dress is super easy on the construction. It’s silly that I haven’t made it yet but I’ve just taken my time getting the pattern situated in my head.  You will use the measurements that you took for the rectangular construction in my Go-To pattern.  Here they are again so you don’t have to back track.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is one measurement that you will take differently.  This measurement is going to be your arm length.  For this rubahkah, you will start the measurement about an inch away from your neck on your shoulder and then go down to your wrist. We’ll call this measurement M. You’ll add two inches to this measurement.

What you want to be cognizant of is your widest point.  Whether its chest, belly or hips this is the measurement you will use for the body.  Divide that number by two then add four inches.  This will be the width you cut out. Unlike the rectangular construction the top needs to be completely open so you don’t need to cut on the fold.  Here is the pattern and the calculations for it.

 

 

 

 

 

The collar will be gathered up to be loose fitting around the neck.  You can use store bought bias tape for the band but to me it looks glaringly modern so I opt to make my own. They sell bias tape makers and they definitely streamline the process but I still usually end up just making mine with an iron and starch.  For this project, you don’t need to worry about actually cutting on the bias. Just cut your strips out, fold them down the middle and press them, then open it up and fold the ends towards the center and press them. Here, its shown with paper ( Sorry, it’s the best I can do right now).

 

 

 

 

 

If you want the band to be thicker, just don’t bring the outer edges all the way to the center when you fold. Now you will gather the neckline. You can do this by hand or by using your longest running stitch on your machine, they both work about the same. Then you just eyeball it.  Gather it up, throw it on, see where it lays, if you like it start attaching your bias. Note: You’ll want to pin your keyhole for this as you won’t be able to tie it closed.

Now, you should have marked your  tape, and ideally it fits about where you desided to lay your gathers.  If it doesn’t, don’t stress, you just want to make sure that you have enough to be able to tie it in the front comfortably. If the strands are too long, you can always cut them down too.

The cuffs of the sleeve will be the same way.  They are a bit wider, so you will gather them and baste a band over the gathers as well and leave ties.  Now, you don’t have to but, having done it on other projects, I highly recommend leaving the sleeve open a bit on the side so that you are sure to get your hand through.  Its just like adding that keyhole to the neckline. I do mine at least two inches up but its up to you.

Now, all you have to do is sew the hem on the bottom of the rubahkah and you’re done.  It’s a fairly simple pattern that shouldn’t take that long to make, it just may take some tweaking.  I want to also try the other pattern for the pskov dress that I’ve found but I definitely don’t want to spring that on you guys before I’ve been able to work it out myself.  I hope this pattern helps and I can’t wait to see you try it out!

I would like to apologize for this having so few pictures. I promise there will be a real tutorial at a later date.