I would like to start by apologizing that this ‘tutorial’ is not going to be as comprehensive as some of my others. I just do not have a way to make a dress or tunic from scratch here and I have had so many requests for patterns that I’m going to do the best I can. And remember, these patterns can be used for womens dresses or mens tunics both. I will mostly refer to them as dresses because I’m a woman and that is mostly what I make but this first pattern especially works for both.

So, you are ready to graduate from the t-tunic! Yay! T-tunics are great and totally get your foot in the door, but there is nothing period about that cut, not to mention all the fabric that is wasted, so lets talk about your Rus’ options.  The first pattern I want to talk to you about is a rectangular construction that I learned a few years back. It’s what I use for just about everything. It’s simple to measure out, saves  fabric, can be modified to make just about anything, and is fairly straight forward on the construction.  So far, I have not been able to find any extant examples of this pattern, either in the Slavic states or at any Vikings sites, but, because of its perks and the lines it gives, I use it.

Ok, my drawing isn’t great and my handwriting sucks but here are your initial measurements. A couple notes on this: K is the measurement from the balls of your shoulders.  J should be taken from the back. You don’t have to, but I recommend getting a friend to help you with these measurements. Put them down somewhere where you won’t use them, a lot of patterns will use these measurements and it so much easier than reinventing the wheel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: For your wrist measurement, you will actually be measuring the knuckles of your hand when you make ‘the duck’ shown here.

Now, what do you do with those measurements you just took? Here are the pattern pieces and how you calculate their length.  The seam allowances are included. It is assuming that you will be machine sewing the seams and allows for a half inch seam. If you are hand sewing, I recommend an inch seam so you can fold the selvage but it is more about what is comfortable for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, for Seven, I usually measure out about 15 inches, but that is because that is roughly my shoulder measurement so it flows better to me.  You can literally do as little or as much as you want.  I would do at least two inches more than Five and the more fabric you use the more wealth you are portraying.  Don’t go too crazy though, the Rus’ didn’t have really full skirts.

Now, for the small top gusset, if you don’t have an obvious distinction between your waist and chest, you are going to want to add a notch to the top so that you can distinguish the top from the bottom.  I learned this the hard way when I was making my husbands coat for his laurel ceremony.

You can either roll the neckline or make a yoke. I like to make yokes whether they are going to show or not, mostly because I suck at rolled necklines but also because it adds an extra layer of modesty particularly if it’s a thin linen or silk. Neither way is wrong, but if you are doing an internal yoke don’t do what I sometimes do and just leave it free floating in there, tack that stuff down! It gets super annoying. Visible contrasting yokes are totally a thing in Rus’ culture. Even doing a nicer fabric for the yolk (say silk for a linen or wool tunic/dress) was definitely something that was done, so be creative!

No modifications to the pattern should get you something like this. Though honestly, their sleeves were usually wider to allow them to be rolled up for work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, the versatility of this pattern is that it can be modified to make anything.  If you add a foot to the sleeves you have a luxurious nobles under dress/tunic.I added permanent gathers to this so it would lay better (It lays better on, not so much on the dummy…) The sleeves on this are left open on the seam a ways and then are buttoned at the wrist. This rubahkah is for someone higher ranking so they would not need to roll up their sleeves to work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Use the back to knee and waist to knee measurements and you have added layers to your look. This also makes a mans tunic.

 

 

 

 

 

Shorten the sleeves and you have a navershnik.

 

 

 

 

 

Bell out the sleeves and you have a Letnik.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cut it down the middle and you have a coat.

 

 

 

 

 

The list goes on and on…

Machine sew it or hand sew it, no one should be looking at your seams unless you invite them ( a HUGE pet peeve of mine), but I highly recommend doing all your finishing (neckline and hems) by hand. It’s a little thing but it really makes a difference when striving for that period look. I have a lot of sewing projects coming up when I get home so eventually there will be a more in-depth tutorial on how to make this for beginners and it will include all my tricks.