I’ve started using more period patterns to make garb. Largely I’ve been using a pattern that is most famously taken from the Bocksten tunic (14th cent) but is also heavily featured in Rus’ garb and a pattern similar to that used in the Mamluk tunics and the Kern tunic, also heavily used in Rus’ garb. There is strong evidence that the Bocksten pattern was used much earlier and we have extant Rus’ garments that use the same single gore construction that the Mamluk/Kern tunic uses. I’m only using these two as examples because they are very easy to find if you decide to go down the rabbit hole.
I started with making a Svita and the Skjoldehamn tunic with the Bocksten-type pattern. I like the pattern a lot. It uses minimal fabric and its quick to sew. However, I will say it is a decidedly easier pattern to hand sew than to machine sew. If you do not sew the square armpit gusset correctly it will pinch and bunch. Many of you probably know this, but for those of you that don’t, let me save you some stress. Mark lines on the squares your seam allowances width from the edge. Don’t sew past where the lines meet. Not only will it minimize bunching but it helps if and when you decide to hand finish the seams.
Like I said, I started by making two tunics. Most recently I went all out on a project and even learned how to block print to do it, but I used the same square gusset pattern, paying careful attention to seam allowance and had great success. The svita looked great if I do say so myself.
For the Mamluk/Kern type pattern, I’ll be honest, it was born out of necessity. I had very little time to make a fitting, working garment and I had a client who has dealt with frumpy looking garments in the past because people often don’t know how to fit her. Hear me, this pattern is amazing for all shapes, sizes, fabrics and it’s phenomenal on a time crunch. It’s amazing how much time gussets add to a garment. Sadly, I don’t have any pictures of her just wearing the under dress, but hopefully you can kind of get the idea. Try not to judge me too harshly for making the sleeves too long… With just having a single angle coming down from the armpit I was nervous that the fabric would bunch under the apron dress and give a bad line, but it didn’t. She was happy, and I was over the moon.
Really, there were no structural issues with this pattern. It is easy to hand sew and to machine sew, it saves time and it’s wonderfully period. I highly recommend it. However, if you want a more fitted silhouette it is probably not the pattern for you. Man, is it easy though.
Figuring out these patterns really helped bring the fun back to costuming. Just like the
other patterns I’ve talked about you can modify these patterns to create just about any other garment. There were some logistic issues but I feel like that made it more fun. When I get caught up I’ll post how to make the actual patterns, but really, I believe in all of you. The measurements are quite similar to other patterns I’ve posted. You got this.